Everything You Need to Know Before Trying Polynucleotides

I had polynucleotides and I would absolutely do it again. Here’s why… 

Once a niche treatment discussed mainly in aesthetic clinics, polynucleotides have become one of the biggest buzzwords in the world of skin treatments, with devotees crediting them with everything from a brighter complexion to smoother-looking skin.

Unlike Botox, which temporarily reduces muscle activity, or dermal fillers, which add volume, polynucleotides are generally described as a skin quality treatment. Think skin boosters, profhilo et al. The idea isn’t to change the architecture of your face, but to encourage your skin to behave a little more like its younger self.

What exactly are polynucleotides?

Polynucleotides are chains of nucleotides, the building blocks of DNA and RNA. In aesthetic medicine, injectable polynucleotide products are typically purified DNA fragments, with some products derived from salmon or trout.

The theory behind the treatment is less about “filling” the skin and more about creating an environment that supports repair and regeneration. Polynucleotides are thought to interact with cells involved in tissue repair and may support processes including collagen production, fibroblast activity and skin hydration.

What can polynucleotides actually do for your skin?

Again: think less “new face” and more “better quality skin”.

The treatment is primarily aimed at improving the appearance and quality of the skin rather than adding obvious volume. Depending on the product and area treated, you may notice improvements in hydration, texture, fine lines and overall luminosity.

The first area I tried Polys in was my under eyes. The skin there is thin, delicate, and can show signs of ageing relatively early. Which is irritating, but also makes it arguably the easiest place to see results. Mine were: smoother, less hollowed, and just generally more awake-looking. 

Polynucleotides versus Botox and filler

This is where things get confusing because all three are often lumped together under the umbrella of aesthetic injectables.

They are doing very different jobs.

Botulinum toxin works by temporarily reducing the activity of targeted muscles, which can soften dynamic lines such as frown lines and crow’s feet.

Dermal fillers are designed to add volume or structure, depending on the type and where they are injected.

Polynucleotides are instead positioned as a regenerative or skin-quality treatment. They are not intended to create the same volumising effect as filler or the muscle-relaxing effect of Botox.

That means they aren’t necessarily alternatives. In some treatment plans, they may be used alongside other aesthetic treatments because they address different concerns.

How is the treatment performed?

Polynucleotides are usually administered through a series of small injections into the skin.

Depending on the product, treatment area and practitioner, the technique can vary. Some clinicians use multiple small injections across the treatment area, while others use different injection patterns depending on the skin and product being used.

Personally, I’d say numbing cream (or even a quick round of lidocaine) is essential, but everyone’s pain tolerance is different. I’ve heard rumours of people foregoing it entirely. I’m not totally sure why but I’m sure they have their reasons.. 

The treatment itself is relatively quick, but obviously the number of injections depends on which area(s) you’re doing. 

Will it hurt?

This depends on the area being treated and your individual pain threshold.

Most people describe the injections as uncomfortable rather than unbearable, although areas such as underneath the eyes can be more sensitive.

You may experience a little bleeding or pinpoint swelling at the injection sites immediately afterwards. Some people also develop small raised bumps where the product has been injected. These can look slightly alarming when you first see them but typically settle as the product disperses.

Your practitioner should tell you exactly what to expect before treatment rather than leaving you to discover it in the bathroom mirror.

What is the downtime?

One of the reasons polynucleotides have become so popular is that downtime is generally limited.

But “minimal downtime” does not mean “camera ready immediately”.

The immediate results from my first foray into Polys were fierce, but not in a particularly good way. Just before passing me the mirror, my therapist reminded me that there was a TK Maxx store opposite which sold sunglasses. A well-placed note, because the multiple injection sites has formed loads of teeny red bumps. I called it my reptile look. They faded pretty quick, but next day they were replaced by some pretty significant bruising. For subsequent appointments, I’ve gone with the cannular option. I’ll be honest, the actual mechanism made my stomach turn, but it was worth it for the pretty much zero downtime. 

You can experience redness, swelling, bruising, tenderness or small bumps after treatment. The extent varies considerably depending on the person, injection technique and treatment area.

Top tip: if you have an important event coming up, don’t schedule your first ever treatment the day before it. I’d say give it a week or so to settle. 

When will you see results?

This isn’t usually an instant-results treatment.

Polynucleotides offer gradual improvements in skin quality, so patience is part of the process. I noticed a fresher appearance relatively quickly, but changes relating to texture and overall skin quality may take longer.

Practitioners commonly recommend a course of treatments rather than treating polynucleotides as a one-off appointment. The exact number and timing depends on the product, area and treatment plan.

And this is an important point: there isn’t one universal “polynucleotide protocol”.

Different products contain different formulations and concentrations, and recommendations can vary. Your practitioner should be able to explain exactly what they are injecting, why they have chosen it and what evidence supports its use.

Are there any risks?

Yes. This is an injectable treatment, not a facial.

Common short-term effects can include redness, swelling, bruising, tenderness and temporary bumps around injection points.

There are also more serious but less common complications associated with injectable aesthetic treatments, including infection, inflammatory reactions and vascular complications. The risk profile depends on the product, injection technique and treatment area.

This is why choosing a qualified, experienced medical practitioner is considerably more important than finding the cheapest treatment.

If someone is offering an injectable treatment at a suspiciously low price and is vague about what product they are using, who is administering it or what their qualifications are, that’s not a beauty bargain. It’s a reason to walk away.

What should you ask before booking?

Start with the basics: what exactly will be injected?

Ask for the full product name, who manufactures it and whether it is appropriately authorised for use in your country and for the intended purpose. Your practitioner should also be able to explain why they recommend that particular product rather than simply telling you it is “the best”.

You should know who will be performing the injections, what their relevant qualifications and experience are, and what happens if you experience a complication.

Ask what results are realistic, how many treatments they recommend, what the total cost will be and what aftercare is required.

And don’t be afraid to ask what happens if you decide you don’t want to proceed. A good consultation should feel like a conversation, not a sales pitch.

What if you’re allergic to fish?

This is one of the questions that comes up repeatedly because many polynucleotide products are derived from salmon or trout DNA.

Having a fish allergy does not automatically mean every polynucleotide product is unsuitable, but it is absolutely something to discuss with your clinician before treatment.

Don’t rely on an Instagram comment saying that it is “fine”. Tell the practitioner about your allergy and let them assess whether the specific product is appropriate.

Are polynucleotides worth it?

That depends entirely on what you want from your treatment.

If your goal is dramatic facial contouring, polynucleotides probably aren’t going to deliver the kind of transformation associated with filler.

If you are interested in gradually improving the appearance and quality of your skin without adding volume, you may just have found your unicorn.

Places I’d recommend: 

Nurse Tan - https://www.tanco.uk

Alta - https://altamedi.com/

Beauty Method Bethany - https://www.beautymethodbybethany.com

This information is not intended to diagnose or treat any health condition. As with any change to your routine, please seek medical advice first.